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PATRICIA'S RABBIT PAGE
This is not meant to be an exhaustive list or a detailed medical account. It is just a summary of commonly asked questions and problems which may be encountered. Any rabbit in need of medical attention should be seen by a vet for a full clinical examination and appropriate advice. There will usually be at least one vet in a practice who is more than happy to see rabbits so don't be shy about asking when you phone up for an appointment.
TAKING YOUR RABBIT TO THE VET
Make sure your container has airholes but is also secure. Remember rabbits
can chew through cardboard and will jump upwards if frightened.
Put a non-slip surface like a carpet tile at the bottom of the carrier,
rabbits don't have pads on their feet and will get frightened if they slip
around.
Rabbits don't need to be starved before an anaesthetic.
Bring a sample of your rabbit's normal food for the vet to see and also
give the rabbit something familiar to eat when it wakes up from having an
anaesthetic.
Tell the vet or nurse who admits your rabbit whether it would normally drink
from a bowl or bottle drinker.
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VACCINATIONS
Myxomatosis
This is a viral disease which is widespread
in the wild rabbit population in Britain. It is carried by fleas so even
if your rabbit is not in direct contact with other wild rabbits it is possible
that cats, dogs or other animals passing through your garden could carry
fleas harbouring the disease.
If a rabbit gets "Myxi" he or she will get lumps and sores on
his/her body including swellings around the nose, muzzle and genitals. They
usually also develop a debilitating pneumonia and although a few rabbits
may survive with intensive nursing care it is a very unpleasant disease
which kills the vast majority of its victims.
Fortunately there is an available vaccine against the disease. The first
"Myxi" vaccination can be given at 6 weeks or over. Booster vaccinations
are advised yearly by the manufacturer but in high risk areas (i.e. near
open countryside or parks) we would advise 6 monthly vaccinations. The vaccine
doesn't give 100% protection but the disease is usually very much milder
than in unvaccinated rabbits.
Myxomatosis cannot be transmitted to other animals (dogs, cats, guinea pigs,
etc.,.)
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Viral Haemorrhagic Disease
This is a devastating disease which occurs in outbreaks in patches of the
country (ask your vet if you live in an infected area). Recently there was
an outbreak in Ayr following the introduction of a wild rabbit to a collection
on a farm park, most of the rabbits died. It causes a blood clotting problem
and death is usually very very quick
There is also a vaccination against "VHD", the first of which
can be given at 10-12 weeks of age followed by annual booster vaccinations.
It is best to give the VHD vaccine two weeks apart from the myxomatosis
vaccine if both are being given. The vaccine has a short shelf life and
your vet may have to order it in specially so mention this when you book
your appointment.
Fleas and Other Skin Diseases
Fleas
Although there is a specific rabbit flea, rabbits can also pick up fleas
from dogs and cats. Signs are itching and black specks in the fur that go
red when wetted. There is no specific flea treatment licensed for rabbits
and it is probably best to control the environmental problem with household
sprays, treat dogs and cats and limit access to wild rabbits. Very mild
powders suitable for puppies and kittens have been used with success but,
as with all unlicensed, must be used with extreme caution. Frontline (fipronil)
sprays have been reported to cause adverse reactions and, although this
is more likely to be concerned with the alcohol carrier, the manufacturer
does not recommend its use. The "spot-on" has been used successfully
when measured out accurately but there is still a risk of which you must
be aware. We have heard no reports of adverse effects using Advantage (imidacloprid),
although this is also an off-license use.
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Flies
Flies aren't a problem when adults but their infant stage is the dreaded
maggot. A rabbit with maggots is described as "fly-struck". Fly
eggs look like sawdust and they can hatch out in as little as 12 hours.
The maggots produce toxins which can cause the rabbit to becomes very ill
so fly-stricken rabbits must be seen by a vet as soon as possible. All the
maggots must be removed, if a lot of skin is missing or if they have gone
internally and the rabbit is very shocked he may not survive. Flies are
attracted to droppings, if the rabbit cannot clean itself because it is
overweight or has bad teeth, or if it has very soft stools due to a poor
diet, it is very much at risk of becoming fly-struck. Daily cleaning of
hutches and checking bottoms of at-risk rabbits is essential. This is an
entirely preventable disease, talk to your vet about diet and hygiene.
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Fur Mites
Fur mites live in small numbers on the fur of a lot of normal rabbits. They
can cause a heavy scurf or dandruff and severe itching if they overcome
the rabbit's skin defences. This can happen spontaneously or if the rabbit
is run down for some other reason. The vet must see your rabbit if you suspect
it may have mites. Your rabbit may be prescribed a course of injections
or baths or both; it may take up to four weeks to clear up the problem.
You must also look at the hygiene of the hutch and talk to your vet about
this and other problems which may be going on. Other rabbits, dogs and cats
can carry the mite and re-infect your rabbit, you may this if the treatment
doesn't seem to be working. Some people may get a rash from the mites but
once the rabbit is treated the rash will go away.
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Other Skin Problems
Rabbits can get other types of mites, lice, fungal and bacterial skin diseases.
Sometimes skin problems can be a sign of other underlying problems. Wet
fur on the front paws and under the chin can be a sign of tooth problems.
If your rabbit's dewlap (the floppy bit under its chin) is wet and sore,
check she isn't dipping it in a water bowl. Female rabbits will pull out
the fur from their bellies in spring because they think they are nesting.
If you think there may be a problem with your rabbit's skin, take it to
a vet.
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Neutering
Females
Female rabbits (does) are neutered by a procedure called ovariohysterectomy.
This means that their ovaries, which produce hormones that make them come
into season, and the uterus which is where the baby rabbits develop are
all removed. It is recommended this should be done between 4 months and
two years of age. Uterine cancer is very common in does, especially New
Zealand Whites, and preventing this disease is the main reason for having
a doe spayed. Uterine cancer can be difficult to detect in the early stages,
often by the time it is picked up it will have spread to other organs.
Spaying may also help various behaviour problems such as aggression and
pulling fur out for nest building. It obviously also prevents unwanted pregnancies
so males and females can be kept together.
The operation itself carries a small risk, as does any surgical procedure.
In this practice we use a special anaesthetic gas called Isoflurane which
is a lot safer for rabbits than the older types of anaesthetic. Ideally
your rabbit should not be overweight before having this operation as this
significantly increases the anaesthetic risks, and she also must be in good
health.
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Males
The most common reason for having a male rabbit neutered (or castrated as
it is known) is to allow him to live with another male or female rabbit.
The operation is shorter than for a female but he will still need to have
a general anaesthetic so the same applies about being overweight. Castration
will also lessen the territorial marking of a male house rabbit and may
reduce behaviour associated with male dominance. Males can be castrated
over 12 weeks of age.
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Breeding
Before thinking about breeding from your pets rabbits, please consider carefully
if you will be able to find good homes for the babies. There are too many
unwanted bunnies in rescue centers all over the country already. Also if
your rabbits have any dental problems, especially with needing the front
teeth trimmed regularly, these are likely to be passed on to their offspring
so think twice about letting them breed
Females mature around 4-5 months, males at around 5-8 months. Females don't
have seasons as such but have spells of around 12-14 days where they will
accept the male. These spells can become almost continuous in the breeding
season between January to September.
Pregnancy lasts 30-32 days, females will nest and pull fur out of their
bellies to expose the nipples. They usually have from 4 to 12 "kittens"
which are born hairless. If more than an hour passes between kittens being
born and the doe is straining she may need a ceserean and it is best to
get her checked by a vet. This is more likely if the kittens are very big,
if the doe is run down or overweight.
It is really important to realize that rabbit milk is very nutritious and
baby rabbits only need to suckle for a few minutes once or twice a day.
THIS IS NORMAL. Unless a vet has checked the mother and found an overwhelming
reason why she cannot produce milk hand rearing baby rabbits should not
be necessary. Handling of the kittens can lead to mismothering so avoid
this, especially in the first week. However as they get older it is important
to handle them so they get socialized early. Kittens emerge from the nest
at 2-3 weeks and will start nibbling on the mother's food. They can be weaned
at about 4-5 weeks.
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MISCELLANEOUS
Urinary tract
Red urine can be normal in rabbits, it can happen with certain types of
greens in the diet due to a harmless pigment. It also may be normal for
it to be slightly cloudy or gritty. However if your rabbit seems off colour,
is drinking more than normal or looks sore underneath you should bring him
in for a check up. Rabbits can get kidney and bladder problems like other
animals. even though they can have a lot of gritty matter in their urine
normally it can sometimes cause irritation and they can also get bladder
stones. This is why it is a bad idea to give your rabbit any mineral supplements,
a good quality diet should provide all the calcium he needs.
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Eyes
Runny eyes can be a sign of dental problems (see dental disease). If your
rabbit has a white discharge from its eyes or if the surface of the eye
looks cloudy then it ought to be checked by a vet.
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Breathing problems
Breathing problems can be rapidly fatal to rabbits. Most rabbits have bacteria
normally in their lungs and when they get stressed or run down, the bacteria
can take over. If your rabbit has a runny nose, if it seems a lot quieter
than normal and is making a big effort to breath: SEE YOUR VET! Breathing
problems can be successfully treated if they are detected early and any
underlying problem is corrected. Look at the ventilation in the hutch (or
irritants like cigarette smoke in the house), the weight of your rabbit,
any bullying going on or other stressful events. Rabbits get heat stressed
very easily so if they are outside make sure they have access to shade and
water all the time.
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Rabbits and Guinea Pigs
Although pet shops will sell these animals to be kept together, they are
not ideal companions. Rabbits often bully the guinea pig, especially if
the rabbit is a larger breed, so there must always be a smaller space for
the guinea pig to hide and get away. Rabbits can carry skin and lung bacteria
that may not affect them but they can pass to the guinea pig. If you are
taking a guinea pig to the vet for a skin problem and it lives with a rabbit,
take the rabbit too. If both are kept together, they must be fed guinea
pig food rather than rabbit food as guinea pigs need vitamin C.
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