PATRICIA'S RABBIT PAGE

This is not meant to be an exhaustive list or a detailed medical account. It is just a summary of commonly asked questions and problems which may be encountered. Any rabbit in need of medical attention should be seen by a vet for a full clinical examination and appropriate advice. There will usually be at least one vet in a practice who is more than happy to see rabbits so don't be shy about asking when you phone up for an appointment.

TAKING YOUR RABBIT TO THE VET

Make sure your container has airholes but is also secure. Remember rabbits can chew through cardboard and will jump upwards if frightened.
Put a non-slip surface like a carpet tile at the bottom of the carrier, rabbits don't have pads on their feet and will get frightened if they slip around.
Rabbits don't need to be starved before an anaesthetic.
Bring a sample of your rabbit's normal food for the vet to see and also give the rabbit something familiar to eat when it wakes up from having an anaesthetic.
Tell the vet or nurse who admits your rabbit whether it would normally drink from a bowl or bottle drinker.

VACCINATIONS

Myxomatosis

This is a viral disease which is widespread in the wild rabbit population in Britain. It is carried by fleas so even if your rabbit is not in direct contact with other wild rabbits it is possible that cats, dogs or other animals passing through your garden could carry fleas harbouring the disease.
If a rabbit gets "Myxi" he or she will get lumps and sores on his/her body including swellings around the nose, muzzle and genitals. They usually also develop a debilitating pneumonia and although a few rabbits may survive with intensive nursing care it is a very unpleasant disease which kills the vast majority of its victims.
Fortunately there is an available vaccine against the disease. The first "Myxi" vaccination can be given at 6 weeks or over. Booster vaccinations are advised yearly by the manufacturer but in high risk areas (i.e. near open countryside or parks) we would advise 6 monthly vaccinations. The vaccine doesn't give 100% protection but the disease is usually very much milder than in unvaccinated rabbits.
Myxomatosis cannot be transmitted to other animals (dogs, cats, guinea pigs, etc.,.)

Viral Haemorrhagic Disease

This is a devastating disease which occurs in outbreaks in patches of the country (ask your vet if you live in an infected area). Recently there was an outbreak in Ayr following the introduction of a wild rabbit to a collection on a farm park, most of the rabbits died. It causes a blood clotting problem and death is usually very very quick
There is also a vaccination against "VHD", the first of which can be given at 10-12 weeks of age followed by annual booster vaccinations. It is best to give the VHD vaccine two weeks apart from the myxomatosis vaccine if both are being given. The vaccine has a short shelf life and your vet may have to order it in specially so mention this when you book your appointment.

Fleas and Other Skin Diseases

Fleas

Although there is a specific rabbit flea, rabbits can also pick up fleas from dogs and cats. Signs are itching and black specks in the fur that go red when wetted. There is no specific flea treatment licensed for rabbits and it is probably best to control the environmental problem with household sprays, treat dogs and cats and limit access to wild rabbits. Very mild powders suitable for puppies and kittens have been used with success but, as with all unlicensed, must be used with extreme caution. Frontline (fipronil) sprays have been reported to cause adverse reactions and, although this is more likely to be concerned with the alcohol carrier, the manufacturer does not recommend its use. The "spot-on" has been used successfully when measured out accurately but there is still a risk of which you must be aware. We have heard no reports of adverse effects using Advantage (imidacloprid), although this is also an off-license use.

Flies

Flies aren't a problem when adults but their infant stage is the dreaded maggot. A rabbit with maggots is described as "fly-struck". Fly eggs look like sawdust and they can hatch out in as little as 12 hours. The maggots produce toxins which can cause the rabbit to becomes very ill so fly-stricken rabbits must be seen by a vet as soon as possible. All the maggots must be removed, if a lot of skin is missing or if they have gone internally and the rabbit is very shocked he may not survive. Flies are attracted to droppings, if the rabbit cannot clean itself because it is overweight or has bad teeth, or if it has very soft stools due to a poor diet, it is very much at risk of becoming fly-struck. Daily cleaning of hutches and checking bottoms of at-risk rabbits is essential. This is an entirely preventable disease, talk to your vet about diet and hygiene.

Fur Mites

Fur mites live in small numbers on the fur of a lot of normal rabbits. They can cause a heavy scurf or dandruff and severe itching if they overcome the rabbit's skin defences. This can happen spontaneously or if the rabbit is run down for some other reason. The vet must see your rabbit if you suspect it may have mites. Your rabbit may be prescribed a course of injections or baths or both; it may take up to four weeks to clear up the problem. You must also look at the hygiene of the hutch and talk to your vet about this and other problems which may be going on. Other rabbits, dogs and cats can carry the mite and re-infect your rabbit, you may this if the treatment doesn't seem to be working. Some people may get a rash from the mites but once the rabbit is treated the rash will go away.

Other Skin Problems

Rabbits can get other types of mites, lice, fungal and bacterial skin diseases. Sometimes skin problems can be a sign of other underlying problems. Wet fur on the front paws and under the chin can be a sign of tooth problems. If your rabbit's dewlap (the floppy bit under its chin) is wet and sore, check she isn't dipping it in a water bowl. Female rabbits will pull out the fur from their bellies in spring because they think they are nesting. If you think there may be a problem with your rabbit's skin, take it to a vet.

Neutering

Females

Female rabbits (does) are neutered by a procedure called ovariohysterectomy. This means that their ovaries, which produce hormones that make them come into season, and the uterus which is where the baby rabbits develop are all removed. It is recommended this should be done between 4 months and two years of age. Uterine cancer is very common in does, especially New Zealand Whites, and preventing this disease is the main reason for having a doe spayed. Uterine cancer can be difficult to detect in the early stages, often by the time it is picked up it will have spread to other organs.
Spaying may also help various behaviour problems such as aggression and pulling fur out for nest building. It obviously also prevents unwanted pregnancies so males and females can be kept together.
The operation itself carries a small risk, as does any surgical procedure. In this practice we use a special anaesthetic gas called Isoflurane which is a lot safer for rabbits than the older types of anaesthetic. Ideally your rabbit should not be overweight before having this operation as this significantly increases the anaesthetic risks, and she also must be in good health.

Males

The most common reason for having a male rabbit neutered (or castrated as it is known) is to allow him to live with another male or female rabbit. The operation is shorter than for a female but he will still need to have a general anaesthetic so the same applies about being overweight. Castration will also lessen the territorial marking of a male house rabbit and may reduce behaviour associated with male dominance. Males can be castrated over 12 weeks of age.

Breeding

Before thinking about breeding from your pets rabbits, please consider carefully if you will be able to find good homes for the babies. There are too many unwanted bunnies in rescue centers all over the country already. Also if your rabbits have any dental problems, especially with needing the front teeth trimmed regularly, these are likely to be passed on to their offspring so think twice about letting them breed

Females mature around 4-5 months, males at around 5-8 months. Females don't have seasons as such but have spells of around 12-14 days where they will accept the male. These spells can become almost continuous in the breeding season between January to September.

Pregnancy lasts 30-32 days, females will nest and pull fur out of their bellies to expose the nipples. They usually have from 4 to 12 "kittens" which are born hairless. If more than an hour passes between kittens being born and the doe is straining she may need a ceserean and it is best to get her checked by a vet. This is more likely if the kittens are very big, if the doe is run down or overweight.

It is really important to realize that rabbit milk is very nutritious and baby rabbits only need to suckle for a few minutes once or twice a day. THIS IS NORMAL. Unless a vet has checked the mother and found an overwhelming reason why she cannot produce milk hand rearing baby rabbits should not be necessary. Handling of the kittens can lead to mismothering so avoid this, especially in the first week. However as they get older it is important to handle them so they get socialized early. Kittens emerge from the nest at 2-3 weeks and will start nibbling on the mother's food. They can be weaned at about 4-5 weeks.

MISCELLANEOUS

Urinary tract

Red urine can be normal in rabbits, it can happen with certain types of greens in the diet due to a harmless pigment. It also may be normal for it to be slightly cloudy or gritty. However if your rabbit seems off colour, is drinking more than normal or looks sore underneath you should bring him in for a check up. Rabbits can get kidney and bladder problems like other animals. even though they can have a lot of gritty matter in their urine normally it can sometimes cause irritation and they can also get bladder stones. This is why it is a bad idea to give your rabbit any mineral supplements, a good quality diet should provide all the calcium he needs.

Eyes

Runny eyes can be a sign of dental problems (see dental disease). If your rabbit has a white discharge from its eyes or if the surface of the eye looks cloudy then it ought to be checked by a vet.

Breathing problems

Breathing problems can be rapidly fatal to rabbits. Most rabbits have bacteria normally in their lungs and when they get stressed or run down, the bacteria can take over. If your rabbit has a runny nose, if it seems a lot quieter than normal and is making a big effort to breath: SEE YOUR VET! Breathing problems can be successfully treated if they are detected early and any underlying problem is corrected. Look at the ventilation in the hutch (or irritants like cigarette smoke in the house), the weight of your rabbit, any bullying going on or other stressful events. Rabbits get heat stressed very easily so if they are outside make sure they have access to shade and water all the time.

Rabbits and Guinea Pigs

Although pet shops will sell these animals to be kept together, they are not ideal companions. Rabbits often bully the guinea pig, especially if the rabbit is a larger breed, so there must always be a smaller space for the guinea pig to hide and get away. Rabbits can carry skin and lung bacteria that may not affect them but they can pass to the guinea pig. If you are taking a guinea pig to the vet for a skin problem and it lives with a rabbit, take the rabbit too. If both are kept together, they must be fed guinea pig food rather than rabbit food as guinea pigs need vitamin C.

THIS INFORMATION HAS BEEN COMPILED BY MRS PATRICIA MacFADYEN FOR BLACKNESS VETERINARY SURGERY